Whicher Ridge 'Elevation' Cabernet Sauvignons

[Waiters Friend]

Whicher Ridge is a relatively recent addition to the Geographe wine region in WA, and are situated just north-east (I think) of the Margaret River wine region. They source grapes from Margaret River and Frankland River as well as from the home vineyard, which sits around 180m above sea level. The Cabernets are probably called 'Elevation' for this reason.

Cathy and Neil launched Whicher Ridge in 2008, and at a tasting at the Wine Thief in West Leederville, Cathy took us through all of their Cabernets released to date - 2012 to 2008. All of the wines see French oak, although the percentage of new oak has been pared back over time. I took a few notes as we went:

2012 Whicher Ridge Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon: Purple in colour. The nose showed lots of blueberry, mocha, vanilla, a touch of nutmeg, and blackcurrant. The palate showed modest but supporting oak, soft integrated tannins, and is medium bodied.

2011 Whicher Ridge Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon: I'll stop with the colour descriptors now, as they only got fractionally lighter over the flight. Lots of blueberry, black plum, mocha, vanilla / spice, and all of these flow through to the palate. Compared to the 2012, this wine is fuller, richer, tannins slightly more grippy, with a long finish and more palate weight. A very good wine indeed.

2010 Whicher Ridge Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon: More development showing than the earlier wines, with raspberry, blackcurrant and a touch of leather. The palate carries the fruit through, and is supported by grippy but fine tannins, and a good length. A very enjoyable wine now, but possibly overshadowed by the 2011.

2009 Whicher Ridge Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon: More developed again than the 2010, and without as much fruit freshness. Raspberries and mildly stewed blackberries on the nose, led into a savoury and tannic palate without the fruit flowing through. Acid was therefore a little more prominent and hard, and this gave the impression of a hot finish. You may guess this was not my favourite of the evening.

2008 Whicher Ridge Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon: Cathy saved the best for last, in my opinion. A fabulous nose which combined some savoury development alongside stewed blackberry, black plum, mocha and leather. This was supported by some excellent oak (apparently this was 100% new), fine but mouth-puckering tannins, and the wine showed a balance of fruit and development. I really enjoyed this one.

Many thanks to Cathy for the tasting (which included new releases of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay as well as a 2007 Shiraz alongside the excellent 2011) and to the Wine Thief for hosting the event. I don't need any more wine as the cellar is overflowing, so I only bought a dozen

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

Just an update on the 2011, a couple of years on.

Still deep red purple in colour, while retaining the richness of the nose, with lots of blackcurrant and blueberry, and mocha / coffee grounds. The vanilla and spice on the nose has softened somewhat. The palate however remains full and rich while retaining elegance - the tannins are fine but grippy, the acid is merely supporting not dominant, and the flow of flavours through the palate is supple rather than overtly mouthfilling.

Possibly approaching its best now, but should hold for another 2-4 years.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

A further update, nearly two years on again from the last update. Primary fruit is developing and diminishing, in favour of secondary and slightly savoury characters. The reduction in fruit has brought the vanilla and spice out a little more.

The palate is still full and rich, and this is where the fruit is more prevalent. Acid is slightly more prominent than it was before, and the finish is long and satisfying.

Not likely to improve much further, and I should open the rest of these in the next year or two.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

My last TN suggested drinking up in the next year or so (from 2019). Of course, I have managed to ignore my own advice, and I am opening my second-last bottle now. Decanted 3 hours before service.

Primary fruit has not diminished any further, and there's still blueberry and red fruits among mocha, vanilla and cinnamon / cloves. A touch of leather and tobacco also.

The palate remains balanced and full of interest, with fine grippy tannins, some glycerol, freshening acid and fruit conserves. Long satisfying finish and at least as good as it was in 2019. Not likely to improve much further, and I should open the rest of these in the next year or two ......... nah, I said that last time. WIll hold.

Cheers
Allan