Last night, Adair and Mardi (Sydney), the Godfather (Gold Coast) joined my wife and I at 'A Foreign Affair' (Manuka, Canberra) for a sumptuous repast with only brief notes taken by yours truly of the following imported wines:
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1990
Still only a pale straw/green colour with a very fine bead. A stunning bouquet of wild flowers, truffles and creme brioche followed by a gorgeous, complex, but surprisingly fresh, palate with an explosive, mind bending finish. Still to fully evolve, one wonders whether this wine can get much better? Here’s hoping! A tip to readers – don’t serve great wines like this too cold (as I did); this wine blossomed in the glass as it warmed up. Rated near Perfect. Plenty of bang for the bucks.
Rene Mure’ Clos St. Landelin Grand Cru Vorbourg Riesling 1997 (Alsace)
A very bright medium yellow straw. Fascinating nose of spicy and mineral-laden stone- and tropical- fruit (mainly peaches and mangoes) with fresh lemon zest in support and a toasty overlay building as the wine sat in the glass. Mouth filling flavours identical to the above with a crunchy texture, plenty of weight, amazingly crisp, indelible, beautifully integrated/balancing natural acidity and a finish to die for. Will go for yonks. This was just Superb with fantastic QPR.
Ch. Leoville Las Cases St Julien 1981 (Bordeaux)
Medium red with plenty of bricking throughout and amber in the edges. Fully mature, this excellent Bordeaux (especially for the vintage) throws up an enticing 'meaty' nose of earth, blackcurrant, cedar, sandalwood and cigar box with some typical regional leafy herbaceousness and forest floor in support. The palate, of medium body, reveals a rounded mouth feel, plenty of creamy, chocolaty, sweet, earthy fruit with the oak judged to perfection and very good length. Both Adair and I sensed there’s still some life left in the wine. There’s little tannin and acid left to feed off but all in all, this beauty could go on for some years, as is the norm for top wines from this appellation. Rated Outstanding.
Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 1989
A late entrant to the nights’ assembly due to the Godfather’s sudden arrival. Last time I tried this wine was early in its' life and was immediately mesmerized by the sheer quality. (On enquiring to secure some additional stock, I was told the importer sold out in a matter of hours). Deep red with some amber hues. Reticent nose at first with some salty iodine notes and a suggestion of amaretto. Perhaps a touch volatile. Came up in the glass to reveal some tar, stewed sour cherry, ‘Zabligione’ (Mardi) and a touch of beetle wing. Of only medium body at first, the palate reveals similar flavours to the nose (except for the beetle wing, of course
) and, with extended breathing, improved somewhat. In particular, the firm tannin structure and sharp acidity showed more and more and the finish gained in authority. I can only rate this as Recommended, perhaps verging up to the next level at the death. Adair liked it more. I was mildly disappointed. For those who may a few bottles stashed away in the cellar, I hope this was an errant bottle. Provenance, here, may be partially to blame.
Ch. Rieussec 1975 (Sauternes)
A deep gold with some mahogany and burnished brass hues. This brilliant, fully worked, mature wine brims with crème brulee, butterscotch, mandarin peel, marzipan, honey, some spicy vanillin from the oak and a hint of (tertiary) volatility. (Paul - full of botrytis) Unctuously textured, with a creamy mouth feel and some serious input from the new oak from the mid to the back palate, this 'sticky' is at the peak of its' powers. Displaying extraordinary length, the power-packed finish is relatively dry keeping the preceding assault on the olfactory senses in check and providing necessary balance and focus. Rated Outstatanding. A pleasure to drink something this old that still drinks so well.
And the restaurant – very good ambience, food and service – Highly Recommended.
Thanks to everyone for making last night a very special evening.
A & M - you'll be happy to know that Paul's promised to recommence therapy when he returns home. I'm not sure it will do him any good
And some skinny impressions on some of the Anniversary Wines:
Billecart-Salmon N/V Brut - many months on cork has done no harm whatsoever - even more bready complexity, weight and explosiveness at the back. Outstanding FWII.
1998 Leo Buring Special Reserve E/V Riesling - not much colour, very fresh, limes and the first toasty elements showing. Crisp and long. Excellent.
1999 Wilson Polish Hill Riesling - bright lemon/yellow, much toastier on the nose, honey and citrus. Amazing fruit sweetness on the palate with some secondary development, just about ready IMO. Highly Recommended
1999 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay - lotsa new oak and rich peach, nectarine and fig fruit seamlessly integrated. Carrying the 14% A/V with aplomb. Every aspect about as good as it gets. Much better bottles than the last one I opened. Outstanding
1997 Domaine Fourrier Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru Gevrey-Chambertin - opened a tad reductive but improved considerably with a hour of breathing. Silky, sappy, gamey, red fruited wine with a moderate finish, good acid and fine tannin. Still needs a few years to be at its' best. Excellent
1991 Oakridge Reserve Cabernet - this has lost some of the sheer class I noted a year or two ago. Either it's going through a trough or the fruit has dropped off a little. Pretty chunky for a Yarra Cabernet. Still a smart wine, all the same. Highly Recommended
