Cabernet Cartel with Julian Langworthy and Rob Mann

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

The Cabernet Cartel event has been conducted at a couple of Eastern States locations (Brisbane and Melbourne?) and made it to Perth on Friday July 24. It was held at the State Cellars Wine Room in Como the Treasury.

16 of us were present for this event, hosted by Julain Langworthy (Fogarty Group, including Deep Woods) and Rob Mann (Corymbia Wines). Erin Larkin (The Wine Advocate) was also present, and, between them, hosted detailed and informative commentary, with a side order of good-natured banter. The team at Como the Treasury (led by Emma Farrelly) provided excellent service and a meal to complement the wines.

The tag line for this event was “the only grape tolerated in Heaven”. The focus of the evening was young, medium bodied Cabernet Sauvignon (and some blends), with the aim of showing recent-vintage Cabernet wines that drink well young, and do not need a decade in the cellar (although these wines will also cellar well). Twelve wines were shown, from 2022 to 2024 vintages, and from different parts of Australia and the world.

My notes are briefer than usual, as the conversation flowed freely. The wines were served in three brackets of four each.

Forest Hill Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Great Southern W.A.): Lovely fruit nose, with blackcurrant, cranberry, violets, dark and red berries. Tannins are fine, with gentle supporting acid. Medium bodied, with a medium to long finish.

Corymbia Calgardup Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Margaret River, W.A.): This wine sees no new oak. There’s blackcurrant, nori and roasted capsicum. Grippy sappy tannins. Medium body and medium to long finish.

Phillip Togni Spring Mountain 2022 (Napa Valley, California): Initially, this was quite savoury on the nose, but the fruit sweetness and ripeness became apparent with some air. Dark fruits and black olive. Firm, chunky tannins and a long finish.

Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Clare Valley, S.A.): Intense dark and red fruits initially, and the savoury elements (tar, black olive) emerged with time in the glass. There’s noticeable acid, some eucalypt, and considerable grippy tannins. Long finish and this one needs time.

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Tenuta San Guido Sassicia 2022 (Bolgheri, Italy): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Bright cherry, tomato leaf, spice and leather. Juicy acid, and subdued tannins. Some earthiness and texture. Medium bodied and good length. No mistaking the country of origin.

Yeringberg Cabernet blend 2023 (Yarra Valley Victoria): The nose shows cedary oak and soft red fruits. The palate is supple and almost slippery, with gentle acid and fine integrating tannins.

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Juniper Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Margaret River, W.A.): Bright red fruits dominating, and slightly tart. A rounded palate, with good supporting acid, and fine grippy tannins. Medium length.

Chateau Rausan Segla 2022 (Margaux, Bordeaux, France): A complex nose, with the combination of fruits and oak blending seamlessly oak. Dark chocolate adds to the palate and the wine finishes long. This will be amazing in 10 years.

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Ansteed and Osicka Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Bendigo, Victoria). From the original Balgownie vineyard (now a housing estate). Old oak. Blackberry and graphite on the nose. The palate is savoury with eucalypt and aniseed. Soft tannins and a medium to long finish. Elegance rather than outright power (which reflected the theme of evening).

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Coonawarra, South Australia): Classic Coonawarra mint, milk chocolate, and bright red fruits. Noticeable acid and fine grippy tannins. Medium bodied and a medium to long finish. Way too young at this point.

Nocturne Sheoak Vineyard 2024 (Margaret River. W.A.): Eucalypt, cassis, blackcurrant and cocoa. Drying tannins and clean acid. Some mouthfeel / texture, and medium to full body and length.

Woodlands ‘Olivia Josephine’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Margaret River, W.A.): 100% new oak. A savoury wine, with graphite, umami, blackcurrant, green capsicum, and milk chocolate. Plenty of oak and good supporting acid. Full bodied and long finish. Too young now and it improved with some air.

There was considerable conversation which was as interesting as the wines. This included debate around how to sell young cabernet to consumers (especially younger consumers) and to promote Margaret River and its wines in a more accessible way. Winemakers are good at talking about the issues and difficulties in the industry, but we need to be selling the positives better (as they do in Europe –‘talking up’ the wines. Julian, Rob and Erin are knowledgeable and articulate speakers with strong opinions, and might just be the people to achieve this.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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