Coonawarra 2025 musings

[phillisc]

Well, here we go round again. I hope I have captured the essence of the region and the wines.

An enjoyable four days with selected visits to some old favourites. Notes from assorted tastings, dinners and events.
General comments are that the 2021 wines are drinking beautifully with perfumed floral notes, very bright fruits and very balanced and approachable wines.
2022 wines have more of the same, but the difference being very rich tannin structures, I noticed this a lot. Most winemakers feel that this vintage will outlive the 2021s, but that’s like picking favourite children.
Not convinced re 2023, could be a somewhat repeat of 2020 that wines are OK on the nose, but palate is either simple, or just simply falls away. 2024 will be very exciting, based on the outstanding quality of the three wines I tried.
Most wineries raving about 2025, and of the one wine I tried, at this stage looks to be a very promising vintage.

Balnaves
2022 Cab merlot, very drinkable and approachable now, seems Merlot is getting a bigger footprint in the region. 2020 Cabernet, nice on the nose, but fruit never arrives, wait till the 2021. 2022 Tally, a very rich plush example, with powerful if somewhat furry tannins, mouth feel that went an age. Excellent wine picked up 6.

Banks Thargo
2012 Cabernet, this was fabulous, beautifully developed and excellent drinking for about $30. 2021 Cabernet, a fraction rough around the edges, big whack of tannin, needs to settle, but shows promise, good solid wine. 2019 Paroo Bagman, has filled out since last year, at $35 the marque, very plush, blue-black fruits abound, might eventually get some.

Bellwether
See that the 2018 Cabernet has sold out, wasn’t hard I expect, after the poor 2017 release. Not sure if something has happened here, this winery used to be part of the fabric of the region’s events, no attendance at roadshows or other tastings. Didn’t get time to visit the CD, may do so next time.

Billy Brand, No recent tastings

Blok Estate, No recent tastings

Bowen Estate
Making two red wines and a Chardonnay that the punters love, (sells out every year) means that Emma Bowen is in absolute control here, Doug, apparently easing back from day-to-day operations. 2023 shiraz, a fraction closed, muted on the nose, a good example from a challenging vintage. 2023 cabernet, bright, glossy with a perfumed scented nose, a touch of eucalypt, again promising, and unlike 2022 with the shiraz taking the points, it’s the other way round this time. 2024 En Primeur wines were simply amazing, shiraz, deep brooding and so balanced now, the cabernet has deep black blue fruits, oak so well integrated, so fresh, so balanced, will be monumental. Apparently 2025 vintage will exceed this, not sure how. 2014 Cabernet, in a wonderful spot, no harshness or any hint of acidic overtones as some said convincingly on release (fools!). 2016 and 2018 Cabernet at dinner, were the wines of the night, 2018, smoky charry oak, intense nose and palate, beautiful drinking, another 10-15 easily. 2016, fabulous structure, long long palate, fine silky tannins, brilliant.

Brand and Sons
Loosing track of how many labels are made. 2021 Last Sunday drive Cabernet Franc, this style is also gaining traction in Coonawarra, some offerings are bold and fruit forward, others are more lunch time reds, as was the case with this. Pleasant, lighter style, not bad. 2021 Night Owls Shiraz Malbec, think this is the only version of this blend from the region, earthy, plums, a bit of oak, firm tannins, very good drinking now. 2021 Jim Brand Silent Partner Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a wonderful wine, everything you want, richness, depth, a twinge of sweetness, fantastic, and have a few in the cellar. Then it goes up a notch, 2021 family Reserve Cabernets (Cabernet, Merlot, Franc), I think? Lovely wine, best of the range, will get some. 2019 Sanctuary Cabernets Sauvignon, cracker of a wine, full bodied, needs a decade, hopefully a good price somewhere on this. 2005 Silent partner, at 20 years this is a great drink, wonderful palate, delicate tannin, at its peak, delicious! 2022 Silent Partner, black, blue fruits, a touch of savoury, olive leading to a rich mouth feel with strong tannins, very well made and needs 10 years. Good line up of wines.

Brands Laira
2009 171 cabernet, magnificent wine, wonderfully developed and integrated, graceful, aged Coonawarra Cabernet. 2018 171 this is in a great spot, very full bodied, excellent mouthful, picked up 3. 2022 Tall Vines Shriaz, cool climate in the mouth, blue fruits, solid wine, 2018 Stentiford shiraz, wonderful example of the vintage, drinking superbly, picked up 3. 2022 1968 Vines cabernet, long nose of black blue fruits, medium weight leading to a firm ripe finish with persistent tannins. This winery is going well, continues to do good things and should be some excellent wines from upcoming vintages.

Digiorgio
Solid range of wines, 2022 Emporio Blend, excellent mouth feel, plush, rich, so balanced, very good. 2022 Shiraz, well made, solid backbone, will age an eternity. 2022 Cabernet, simply needs time, powerful tannin structure, revisit in a decade, good VFM at $30 something. 2022 Cab Franc, this wine is made in the fuller style, very good indeed. 2018 cabernet, in a great spot, a delight, smooth long lingering palate, lovely touch of sweetness.

Hollick
Some improvement here in the wines, 2019 Shiraz, I really enjoyed this, plums, spice, a bit of oak, well balanced, a lovely mouth feel, finishes strong. 2021 Wilgha shiraz, a cut above, solid wine, well made. 2021 old vine cabernet, unfortunately a bit lean, lacks fruit or polish. 2019 Ravenswood, has evolved from last year, very balanced, medium bodied, long gentle tannins. Lots of black blue fruits. 2013 Ravenswood, I enjoyed this, developing nicely, very sound, in a great spot.

Katnook
Good opportunity to look at a couple of Odyssey vintages. 2021 continues its impressive journey, so much varietal character here, blueberry, sweetness, full bodied, long finish, very very good. 2022 Odyssey, looking great at this stage, a fraction restrained and very rich tannins, this will be on the buy list, when released. 2014, in a great spot, still so primary, inky purple black, wonderful wine. 2022 Cabernet really enjoyed this, nice balance between oak and fruit, great mouthfeel, long finish, 6 in the hole. 2022 Prodigy, a reflection of the vintage to come, very fleshy, bright cool in the mouth, but a long smooth finish, excellent wine. 2002 Prodigy, excellent to see Coonawarra Shiraz singing at this age, reminds me of an old Wynns Michael. Went back for a second glass!! 2022 Shiraz, solid wine, lovely structure.

Koonara
2021 Angels Wings, apart from the 2022 Head Honcho (top marque), this is the best wine in the range. Bright fruits, twinge of sweetness, excellent. Head Honcho, feels like a 90s John Riddoch, (made by the same guy), fabulous structure, flavour, taste. Would like some.

Leconfield
Another winery that I am beginning to lose track of how many wines are actually made. 2024 Riesling, lovely crisp, racy acidity, excellent. 2022 Merlot, in the mould of something more akin to Langhorne Creek/Mclaren Vale…rich dense, big whack of wood and tannin…not bad. 2022 cabernet, this is a very fruit forward wine with the robust tannin structure to go with it. Not what I would ever call delicate, but equally, not overdone. Will be long lived, have picked up a few. 2022 Cabernet Franc, in the richer style, very attractive wine, much better than the 2024 Wynns equivalent. 2018 The Sydney reserve, this is a cracker and a return to form, after the limpid green 2017. Lovely mouth feel, plush fruits, another 10-20 ahead of it…May finally have to get some. 2008 Cabernet Merlot. Interesting wine, dominance of the cabernet upfront, softness of the merlot filling out to a generous palate. 2022 reserve cabernets…think this is a triple blend, sauvignon, merlot, franc, very good wine, possibly a new release. Great depth and very balanced.

Lindemans
A chance to look at the 2022s…St George in a word fabulous. Have purchased and maybe more. Limestone ridge, rich plush, brooding, 55/45 C/S blend, very very good. Pyrus, this quad blend works so well, ying and the yang of cabernet up front, then merlot, franc drawing the restraint, with earthy dusky tannins, really enjoyed all these. 1980 St George (magnum, 1981 JWT winner). Haven’t seen this wine for 20 years, amazing, still so full of life. A great set of wines.

Majella
Simply spoilt for riches here. Had a look at the 2018 Mallea, classic old cabernet shiraz, lovely rich deep mouth feel, so well made. 2016 GPL68, grapes from this block used to make their way into John Riddoch, and this wine feels familiar, have a few and will go 30 years. Apparently, there is a special at the CD. 2017 Mallea, not in the same class, fruit very muted. 2024 chardonnay, first release and not liked by its maker, and I agree…simply doesn’t cut through like a Riesling. 2022 Merlot, very similar style and profile to Leconfield, nice wine without being spectacular. 2016-2025 vertical, this is always a highlight. 2025 already can see the quality of the vintage to come, similarly to 2024, 2023 improving a little, fruit quite restrained. 2022 very cool in the mouth, a bit of black pepper, very firm tannins, will be very good. 2021, superstar wine, continues to wonder, have a dozen, maybe more. 2020 fruit is still trying to push through, like a broken record. 2019 wonderful balanced plush wine, 2018 in a brilliant spot, 2017 surprisingly showing improvement, seems to have knocked off the green bitter edge. 2016 favoured by many as the best in the line up, not hard to agree, in a great spot, another 5-10 easily. Finally tried the paella, absolutely bang on. Great experience once again.

Otellia, unfortunately never got to the CD, despite driving past a number of times, always next year.

Padthaway Estate, just simply drove on by.

Parker
I reflect on the entry of last year’s epistle, and it has. The cross over from 2021 to 2022, sees a brilliant range of wines. Plus, a couple of home-made pies and arancini sealed the deal. Roger formerly from Otellia has joined the team, he is a brilliant addition. 2021 Cool climate cabernet, entry point wine, but as good or better then some mid-range wines from other makers. Classically cool in the mouth, clean as a whistle, lovely finish, a few more in the boot. 2022 Cool climate, very fruit forward, a fraction of alcohol heat, nice tannin finish, has potential. 2022 Terra Rossa Cabernet, classic varietal nose, oak, fruit, tannin all play a part, a lick of acidity, a touch of sweetness, really good. 2022 TR shiraz, cool cool cool in the mouth, much like the Wynns Old Vine, fantastic rich plush palate, so enjoyable now, but will age very well. 2024 Small Batch Wine (SBW) Bailey Cabernet Franc. Named in honour of Kirsty Bailey who has been at the CD for 20+years. I really liked this, sits between the lunch time style, which bolder fruit expression, but a fraction restrained compared to Leconfield, very enjoyable. 2022 Kidman Block shiraz, this was probably the shiraz of the weekend for me, restrained power, will unfold as something really special with time, lovely drying tannins. 2022 95 Block, 81/19 Cabernet Petit Verdo blend. This is very good indeed, full flavoured wine, lovely mouth feel, with lingering tannins that go an age!! 2021 First Growth, silky smooth, classic 2021 vintage expression, super wine, picked up a few. Thanks again to the Parker team.

Patrick
Brief impressions, 2019 Home Block cabernet, very sound, plush fruits, long finish, got a couple. 2019 Two Blocks, solid well made, doesn’t quite hit the heights of the home block. 2013 grade reserve cabernet, this is peaking, lovely old wine.

Raidis, not much happening here, tried the 2022 Billy Cabernet, well made.

Redman
2024 Riesling, new addition to the other one they make, front row/20 row?? Nicely made with good acidity. 2022 Last Row Shiraz, a little lean, almost a drink now style. 2022 first divide cabernet, very easy drinking wine, nicely balanced. 2021 Cabernet Merlot, this wine feels very soft, almost beginning to fade, pleasant but nothing special. 2022 shiraz, rich, plush, dense, really enjoyed this, good wine, with a decade to come. Similarly, 2022 cabernet, excellent wine, great mouth feel, rich robust tannins, needs time+++ 2021 The Redman, 70/30 C/S split, the best of the line up, picked up a couple, classy wine, lovely blend, leading to a long firm finish, very enjoyable. 2005 The Redman, at 20 years one of the wines of the weekend, has developed magnificently, a joy to taste. Then a pair of 2017s, which to be honest were a letdown, Shiraz, a fraction thin, and equally a cabernet that has seen its best.

Riddoch, nothing tasted

Rymill
Had a look at a couple of vintages of the surveyor. 2015 big wine, with an even bigger whack of oak. Balanced maybe but I feel time might be kind. 2022 more oak, more tannin, needs to be locked up.

Whistle Post
Winemaker Brian is a great bloke, always generous with wines and time. 2012 Reserve, this is a beast, very primary with an eon to go, picked up a couple, as I’m very interested to see where this will end up. 2018 cabernet, in a great spot, lovely mouth feel. 2018 Reserve, just a pup, picked up a couple. These wines are full boar, loads of fruit, flavour and potential.

Wynns
Proud to say a massive improvement on last years’ experience, perhaps feedback does work. 2025 Wynns Black label Cabernet. Taken from the barrel and served up, can’t believe how good the fruit was, so plush and rich, will be a belter of a wine. 2023 BL Cab by comparison, looks strangely weak and disjointed. This wine is the only release from 2023, nothing else made above the core range. 2025 Cabernet Franc loads of plums, cherry sweet fruits, lighter style, but already looks smart. 2015 Messenger, on song, beautiful mouth feel, long life ahead. 2021 Messenger was my pick, luscious rich but all in check, will develop very well. 2012 Childs, another wonderful wine, just beginning its life, still inky black, a treat to taste. 2022 Childs, loads of blackberry, oak hardly discernible, really good, another lovely wine. 2024 cabernet franc, have had this a couple of times now, not really convinced, feels just a fraction light. 2022 Michael, right in the groove, plums, spice, richness depth, will wait until the price falls. Then onto a few JRs, 2015 just starting a canter and thinking about the next 20 years, so much flavour, long long finish, elegant tannins. 2021, this is a glorious wine, said so on release and even better now, decades ahead, brilliant wine, but 2022 JR could scoop the lot. The structure of this wine, the rich tannins, modest alcohol, lashings of black blue fruits, is an absolute surprise. Staff here suggest that this will outlive the 2021, just wish it wasn’t under cork, but duds will be replaced. 1999 JR, this was also a surprise, thought it looked and tasted much younger, in a great spot. 2006 JR, with a rump steak at the pub. Still so primary, about halfway I reckon, with absolutely no brown edges, super good!! Good experience at the CD.

Yalumba
Only open at the Menzies wine room a couple of days a year it seems, and we were asked to have a seat on the couch to then be served up several wines. 2015 Menzies, fabbo wine, have a few, dark brooding cabernet, luscious rich. 2020 Menzies simply should not have been made, harsh green edges, too much acid, too little fruit, reminiscent of the 2017. 2021 Menzies, yes please, this is a return to form, lovely palate weight, silky finish. Apparently a very small make and almost sold out. I’ve never seen it at retail, $74 at the CD, a bit steep?? 2022 Sanctum, amazing for the money ($16), far better than the 2020 Menzies, really well made. 2023 Sanctum, a bit light on, don’t think I’ll bother. 2022 The Cigar, this simply needs time to settle, massive tannins, big wine, great potential. 2020 Cigar, green, all out of place, rubbish wine. 2019 Menzies, another cracker, wonderful wine, perfumed nose, lovely florals, twinge of sweetness, very enjoyable. 1999 Menzies, nice old red, probably past its best, quite tertiary in profile. 1997 Menzies, this was remarkable, full of life, fantastic structure, terrific wine. Then another dinner at the pub, 1998 Menzies, best of the lot, still purple in the glass, so much fruit, sweetness and warmth, bottle gone in a flash. Overall, a good range of wines.

Zema Estate
2005 Family Selection cabernet, wonderful to experience this, fantastic wine, full of flavour and life, silky smooth, delicious. 2018 FS cabernet simply needs more time, very good wine, tannins a little harsh, but should develop well. 2021 cabernet, solid wine, perhaps not as spectacular as others, good VFM. 2016 Saluti cabernet, top of the range, second release after the 2006. Excellent wine, lovely structure…just a case of you can’t buy them all.
Well very enjoyable meals, dinners and CD experiences, another great year.
Will saddle up again in 2026.

Cheers Craig

[Chuck]

Thanks for the great notes again Craig. Your passion for Coonawarra shows and the great run of excellent recent vintages 21, 22, 24, 25 is a plus for the area. Will keep a lookout.

[phillisc]

Thanks Carl,
An embarrassment of riches to be honest. There are simply so many good wines with more to come.
Certainly allows anything from 2017, 2020 and likely 2023 vintage to be easily discarded.
Interesting that 2-3 wineries are planning to release wines at a potentially "lower" price point as very few punters these days are dropping $600-900+ on a six pack.
Equally, the demographic for Coonawarra wine and visitors to the region falls into the 50-60+ age bracket.
Over four days I saw precious few people who were south of 40.

I will have an eye on the 2025 Limestone Coast Wine Show results which come out tomorrow...dreading a Yalumba Sanctum three-peat, surely not!

Cheers Craig

[Con J]

Yeah thanks Graig interesting read and these are the sort of posts that make me wish I was still buying.
My cellar is maybe down to about 60-70% from 3 or 4 years ago.

Still got a bottle of 1980 St George.

Cheers Con.

[phillisc]

Great to see that the judges got it right this year at the Limestone Coast Wine Show.
Majella 2022 wine of show and its a cracker. Along with Parker small batch 2024 Cabernet Franc, 2022 Wynns Childs, 2021 Yalumba Menzies and a bit of love for the 2022 Lindies trio...all excellent wines.

Cheers Craig

[Chuck]

Great to see that the judges got it right this year at the Limestone Coast Wine Show.
Majella 2022 wine of show and its a cracker. Along with Parker small batch 2024 Cabernet Franc, 2022 Wynns Childs, 2021 Yalumba Menzies and a bit of love for the 2022 Lindies trio...all excellent wines.

Cheers Craig

Interesting that the JH site gave the 22 Majella Cabernet just 91/100 (bright red cherries), saying it was a drink now style that could be cellared for 6-8 years. Go figure. Having said that I do recall N4Sir saying Majella cab was the benchmark Coonawarra cabernet. I like the style too and may have a few from 12 somewhere.

Cheers

Carl

[JDSJDS]

Thanks so much for the latest annual Coonawarra epistle, I always greatly enjoy reading your comments on this great region.

[phillisc]

Many thanks
Had a 2022 Leconfield, Cabernet tonight very good, rich plush and firm tannin finish. Not a hair out of place... lovely wine.
Cheers Craig

[mjs]

Didn't get to taste as much as Craig a couple of weekends ago, but a couple of standouts for me.

En primeur 2024 Bowen Estate Shiraz and Cabernet wines - absolutely outstanding

'96 Menzies - opened later on Saturday when the '98 had run out. Absolute gem of an older wine.

Honourable mentions to Majella, Katnook (Caledoniam, Odyssey and Prodigy) and Wynns (JR and Childs).

Dinner at Pipers was outstanding as usual, the 2016 and 2018 Bowen cabernets were the highlight for me

[phillisc]

Very much agree Malcolm.
A great weekend with so many good wines, and yes the 2024 Bowens were excellent.
I have unfortunately drunk virtually all my 90s Menzies. I have a 1994, 1997 and a magnum of the 1999.
The 1998 that we had at the pub was sensational. The 1996 that I wrote about in the 2023 musings was exceptional.
Great wines Indeed.
Cheers Craig

[darellk]

Very much agree Malcolm.
A great weekend with so many good wines, and yes the 2024 Bowens were excellent.
I have unfortunately drunk virtually all my 90s Menzies. I have a 1994, 1997 and a magnum of the 1999.
The 1998 that we had at the pub was sensational. The 1996 that I wrote about in the 2023 musings was exceptional.
Great wines Indeed.
Cheers Craig

Hi Craig, being a late appreciator of Bowen Estate I'm keen to hear which recent vintages and varities you prefer and view as standouts.

Cheers,

Darell

[phillisc]

Darell, thanks.

Bowen is one of the consistent producers, over the last decade I would look at 2010, 2012-16, 2018-19, 2021-22.
2011 was a rotten vintage as was 2017. 2020 was also difficult but Bowen was one of the better ones. I have reservations about 2023, its OK, but will be forever stuck between two classic vintages. As Malcolm said, the 2024s will be very good.

A couple of well known critics suggested releases from around 2013-2016 vintages had more acid in them than a glass of orange juice...completely untrue. These wines always need time, have had all of these in the last 1-2 years and they're very good.

I had a laugh when I received the mailer this year, price increase from $28 to $30.
I paid $18 for the 1998s...wonderful value for money.

They make 2 reds, I can't split them

Cheers Craig

[darellk]

Thanks Craig. It was the 2019 Shiraz that really caught my attention. I have some 2019 & 2022 put aside of both reds, and also was a bit underwhelmed with a 2023 Cabernet that was recently gifted to me. I might skip that vintage and stock up a little on the 2024, as well as keep an eye open for any of those past vintages on the various auction sites.

And agree on the price....amazing value for the $. Similar to Noon, I recently saw a video of their 2008 open day where the Eclispe and Reserve Cabernet were $27, and this years mailer price was again $30.

[GraemeG]

Nice write-up. Has Highbank just disappeared into the ether? Family schism or something?

[Waiters Friend]

Nice write-up. Has Highbank just disappeared into the ether? Family schism or something?

I'm curious about this too. The Highbank website is mostly back vintages,and there's been some bargains for 2014 - 2016 blends in the past couple of years through Langtons. Is there a story here?

[phillisc]

Highbank is on the market. Dennis Vice sold off a heap of stock a few years back. There was whisper round the traps that it was heat affected stock.

I think there's a note in a previous musings on the 2016...I seem to remember that caramelised came to mind. If I had millions it would be a nice proposition...old buildings used for accommodation and a small adjoining vineyard.

Cheers Craig