Okay, my turn.
Nearly the last person on Auswine to visit the heart of Piemonte, I've been delivered one day, and a rental bicycle next week. I'll be based in Alba, teh hotel has sorted me a bicycle, so after dinner in Alba on Friday night, I shall hit the road.
From past experience, the actual cycling in that stunning landscape will be the focus, but I'd love to hear from more experienced folk here - if you could nominate just two wineries you recommend in the Barbaresco/Nieve/Barolo area, what would they be?
Any tips would be much appreciated.
One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
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via collins
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:16 pm
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
Hi VC
I've not been the Neive, so can't comment there, but close to Barbaresco I'd recommend Albino Rocca for a range that is interesting across both whites and reds (do try their Cortese, better than I've experienced from Gavi so far, plus their Moscato d'Asti is a good'un). Hospitable, interesting, and I was impressed that on the tasting shelf that day they had a range of wines from other parts of the world, left over from a tasting the evening before, so not blind to the outside world.
For food, Treiso has four fine places, the only one where variable experiences are reported (brilliant to poor!) is the posh one (Tornavento). Nicely quiet, such that arriving into the village would feel really nice on a cycle.
Barolo - masses of choices amongst the villages (Barolo itself is now my least favourite, as it's starting to show the effect of tourism). La Morra is pretty steep, so can be a challenge, even with the switchback turns, though in truth all the villages are on hills of varying sizes. Barolo one of the flatter ones except for a short steep final sprint. Serralunga more a long drag up there, Monforte not too bad, but depends which side you come in from. Verduno quite flat and if you can find a good quiet road from Alba to avoid the worst of the major junction, Burlotto make for a great tasting with large range, pretty much all interesting, and Fabio is a genial host. Might be the ideal one if you can find a safe route there.
Schiavenza worth consideration if you're in range of Serralunga, as they are making a sizeable range of Barolo wines (standard bottling plus IIRC 3 single
vineyard bottlings in both standard and riserva versions). Good value IMO for what they are, and definitely a winery to follow as the family seem very serious/questing. In addition they have a restaurant as well, doing a classic menu with only very subtle modern touches, for less money than it should be. They have their own wines by the glass, plus wines of others by the bottle as well. We had the tasting before the meal, then visited the winery between main and dessert (the winery is below the restaurant).
Nearby, in the Gabutti vineyard of Serralunga, is (Franco) Boasso of the Gabutti winery. We stayed in the apartments rented out by the family, and were not planning to taste there, but really glad we did. Old school traditional style, no barrique at all IIRC. Barolo wines all good and very good value, but arguably the star was a more modest wine. His Barbera d'Alba with 3-4 years age on it is right in our style preference, being elegant with a touch of farmyard (if that isn't a contradiction). For IIRC €10 it was fantastic value.
Might be easier though, if you say which village(s) you're likely to be in at a suitable time for tasting, and I've no doubt we can offer up suggestions.
Presumably you can ask the hotel to do the bookings. Very few 'cellar doors/tasting rooms' in the Langhe, and those that exist typically are disappointing experiences, whereas planned visits usually offer fine hospitality.
Regards
Ian
p.s. If you ever return to cycle in Italy, and fancy some steeper inclines, then the cycling in Trentino is pretty special. There was a Portuguese team staying in the adjoining apartment where we stayed first time in Molveno and they were enjoying the challenge. In addition, in the hills above Trento itself, there is a winery run by cycling legend Francesco Moser, and we will go there on our next visit (the brain of the operation used to ride a Moser bike)
I've not been the Neive, so can't comment there, but close to Barbaresco I'd recommend Albino Rocca for a range that is interesting across both whites and reds (do try their Cortese, better than I've experienced from Gavi so far, plus their Moscato d'Asti is a good'un). Hospitable, interesting, and I was impressed that on the tasting shelf that day they had a range of wines from other parts of the world, left over from a tasting the evening before, so not blind to the outside world.
For food, Treiso has four fine places, the only one where variable experiences are reported (brilliant to poor!) is the posh one (Tornavento). Nicely quiet, such that arriving into the village would feel really nice on a cycle.
Barolo - masses of choices amongst the villages (Barolo itself is now my least favourite, as it's starting to show the effect of tourism). La Morra is pretty steep, so can be a challenge, even with the switchback turns, though in truth all the villages are on hills of varying sizes. Barolo one of the flatter ones except for a short steep final sprint. Serralunga more a long drag up there, Monforte not too bad, but depends which side you come in from. Verduno quite flat and if you can find a good quiet road from Alba to avoid the worst of the major junction, Burlotto make for a great tasting with large range, pretty much all interesting, and Fabio is a genial host. Might be the ideal one if you can find a safe route there.
Schiavenza worth consideration if you're in range of Serralunga, as they are making a sizeable range of Barolo wines (standard bottling plus IIRC 3 single
vineyard bottlings in both standard and riserva versions). Good value IMO for what they are, and definitely a winery to follow as the family seem very serious/questing. In addition they have a restaurant as well, doing a classic menu with only very subtle modern touches, for less money than it should be. They have their own wines by the glass, plus wines of others by the bottle as well. We had the tasting before the meal, then visited the winery between main and dessert (the winery is below the restaurant).
Nearby, in the Gabutti vineyard of Serralunga, is (Franco) Boasso of the Gabutti winery. We stayed in the apartments rented out by the family, and were not planning to taste there, but really glad we did. Old school traditional style, no barrique at all IIRC. Barolo wines all good and very good value, but arguably the star was a more modest wine. His Barbera d'Alba with 3-4 years age on it is right in our style preference, being elegant with a touch of farmyard (if that isn't a contradiction). For IIRC €10 it was fantastic value.
Might be easier though, if you say which village(s) you're likely to be in at a suitable time for tasting, and I've no doubt we can offer up suggestions.
Presumably you can ask the hotel to do the bookings. Very few 'cellar doors/tasting rooms' in the Langhe, and those that exist typically are disappointing experiences, whereas planned visits usually offer fine hospitality.
Regards
Ian
p.s. If you ever return to cycle in Italy, and fancy some steeper inclines, then the cycling in Trentino is pretty special. There was a Portuguese team staying in the adjoining apartment where we stayed first time in Molveno and they were enjoying the challenge. In addition, in the hills above Trento itself, there is a winery run by cycling legend Francesco Moser, and we will go there on our next visit (the brain of the operation used to ride a Moser bike)
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via collins
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:16 pm
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
Thanks Ian.
I do appreciate the need to book in advance. Certainly have picked that up while browsing here
While in Campania in July, I had every intention of tackling Vesuvius (approx 50 km return), but it was hotter'n'hell, so I opted for civilised city cycling, and it was fantastic. Reckon the rolling hills of Langhe will suit me just fine.
I do appreciate the need to book in advance. Certainly have picked that up while browsing here
While in Campania in July, I had every intention of tackling Vesuvius (approx 50 km return), but it was hotter'n'hell, so I opted for civilised city cycling, and it was fantastic. Reckon the rolling hills of Langhe will suit me just fine.
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via collins
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:16 pm
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
Oh, and in terms of villages, i was going to base directions on recommendations.
Focuses as of now:
* Truffle market in Alba
* Enoteca in Barbaresco at some point
and that's it really. I'll have 2 dinners in Alba, at the two predictable places, but I am leaving winery visits open for now.
There's probably 20km or so of cycling in the day, so I reckon 2 visits in not pushing it.
Cheers.
Focuses as of now:
* Truffle market in Alba
* Enoteca in Barbaresco at some point
and that's it really. I'll have 2 dinners in Alba, at the two predictable places, but I am leaving winery visits open for now.
There's probably 20km or so of cycling in the day, so I reckon 2 visits in not pushing it.
Cheers.
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
edit - just checking on Google for Alba to Verduno - Strada Gamba di Bosco looks ideal to get you to Talloria, and once you've worked out a safe route through that, the SP358 looks decent, or you could detour to visit Roddi without going too far out of the way. Only ~ 13km and shouldn't hit many hills, so a 26km round trip, or a little longer to make more of a circuit. Once out of the festival traffic in Alba, only that Talloria junction should give you any stress, the rest should be decent cycling.
Checking the map for that horrible junction I feared in the first post, it can easily be avoided, as it's where the Alba-Bra road hits the main roads north and south, and I find it intimidating in a car so would be 'troppo nervoso *in bicicletta'!
Comments posted earlier about the truffle market, definitely best to get there early as it gets stupid busy. Staying in a hotel will be frustrating at the truffle market (and indeed to outdoor markets which are really good now), as there is so much good food, you'll be cursing not having a kitchen to be let loose in with such goodies. No reason not to collect a cheese selection to take back to the hotel for a DIY supper, with perhaps some grapes to have with it. Can sealed jars be taken back through Aussie customs? If so, try the Cugna/Cogna, as the better ones are wonderful with cheese. Also keep an eye out for the Mint of Pancalieri stall - they make all sorts of goodies using the local highly regarded mint. There is a good event listing produced every year for the festival, and the flag throwing procession not to be missed if you've never seen it in Italy before. For us the mushroom display was also unmissable - the brains of the operation is a very keen amateur.
The Enoteca in Barbaresco is an easy drop in, taste a few glasses and leave sort of place. Compact and understated, everything its equivalent in Barolo is not these days. I like it, though I couldn't see us spending more than 30-40 mins there.
We once considered walking from Alba to Barbaresco, so very quick on the bike, so I'd recommend spinning the route out by taking in Treiso and making a mini loop connected back onto the main road at say Pertinace. We've walked up via Rabaja and via Rio Sordo, and these would make ideal cycling between Barbaresco and Tre Stelle - barely a car seen as we walked (a few barking dogs though, as is usual in Italy). Risorgimento, Profumo di Vino and Osteria dell'Unione are all places I would feel comfortable dining in wearing cycling gear. Profumo di Vino is a wine bar doing tasty small meals, whilst the other two do good quality / tasty trattoria food, which will give a good representation of traditional local foods.
Regards
Ian
* I remain amused by the way you travel with a bike 'con bicicletta' or in a bike 'in bicicletta', but never on a bike as we describe it in English.
Checking the map for that horrible junction I feared in the first post, it can easily be avoided, as it's where the Alba-Bra road hits the main roads north and south, and I find it intimidating in a car so would be 'troppo nervoso *in bicicletta'!
Comments posted earlier about the truffle market, definitely best to get there early as it gets stupid busy. Staying in a hotel will be frustrating at the truffle market (and indeed to outdoor markets which are really good now), as there is so much good food, you'll be cursing not having a kitchen to be let loose in with such goodies. No reason not to collect a cheese selection to take back to the hotel for a DIY supper, with perhaps some grapes to have with it. Can sealed jars be taken back through Aussie customs? If so, try the Cugna/Cogna, as the better ones are wonderful with cheese. Also keep an eye out for the Mint of Pancalieri stall - they make all sorts of goodies using the local highly regarded mint. There is a good event listing produced every year for the festival, and the flag throwing procession not to be missed if you've never seen it in Italy before. For us the mushroom display was also unmissable - the brains of the operation is a very keen amateur.
The Enoteca in Barbaresco is an easy drop in, taste a few glasses and leave sort of place. Compact and understated, everything its equivalent in Barolo is not these days. I like it, though I couldn't see us spending more than 30-40 mins there.
We once considered walking from Alba to Barbaresco, so very quick on the bike, so I'd recommend spinning the route out by taking in Treiso and making a mini loop connected back onto the main road at say Pertinace. We've walked up via Rabaja and via Rio Sordo, and these would make ideal cycling between Barbaresco and Tre Stelle - barely a car seen as we walked (a few barking dogs though, as is usual in Italy). Risorgimento, Profumo di Vino and Osteria dell'Unione are all places I would feel comfortable dining in wearing cycling gear. Profumo di Vino is a wine bar doing tasty small meals, whilst the other two do good quality / tasty trattoria food, which will give a good representation of traditional local foods.
Regards
Ian
* I remain amused by the way you travel with a bike 'con bicicletta' or in a bike 'in bicicletta', but never on a bike as we describe it in English.
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
Hi VC,
If I had only 1 day to spend in the region, I'd probably stay confined to Barbaresco.
Maybe it was the producers I selected, but I just found the visits a little more personal and the wines just as good as Barolo.
My picks of Barbaresco to visit were - Bruno Rocca, Albino Rocca, Moccagatta and Ca' del Baio.
You can see my report of Moccagatta, but am yet to put up the others (work in progress).
In terms of lunch, I would implore you to visit Osteria taStè in Tre Stelle - http://www.osteriataste.it/
Very close proximity to all of the above wineries.
PM me if you want more detail.
Good luck and enjoy!
If I had only 1 day to spend in the region, I'd probably stay confined to Barbaresco.
Maybe it was the producers I selected, but I just found the visits a little more personal and the wines just as good as Barolo.
My picks of Barbaresco to visit were - Bruno Rocca, Albino Rocca, Moccagatta and Ca' del Baio.
You can see my report of Moccagatta, but am yet to put up the others (work in progress).
In terms of lunch, I would implore you to visit Osteria taStè in Tre Stelle - http://www.osteriataste.it/
Very close proximity to all of the above wineries.
PM me if you want more detail.
Good luck and enjoy!
Last edited by Diddy on Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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via collins
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:16 pm
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
Many thanks Liam and Ian.
You know Liam, I was kind of thinking that way, and Ian's low-intensity plans fit the bill nicely.
Very much appreciate both your tips and will be reporting in just as soon as am able. After Alba, work gets a tad intense, but there is Florence, and 4 days in Rome ahead. Both are regulars, and favourite haunts will be hit up of course, but gee I am looking forward to the very gentle sound of cycle wheels traversing those magnificent hills.
I've orders for truffles to take into France Ian, but for home I suspect the jars might be the safest way to go for home transport - should be safe through customs, but I'll bore myself googling it any way
Kudos also for the tip of cheese and grapes back at the hotel - wouldn't be the first time, and generally an enormously enjoyable option. We shall see what we shall see!
Cheers,
You know Liam, I was kind of thinking that way, and Ian's low-intensity plans fit the bill nicely.
Very much appreciate both your tips and will be reporting in just as soon as am able. After Alba, work gets a tad intense, but there is Florence, and 4 days in Rome ahead. Both are regulars, and favourite haunts will be hit up of course, but gee I am looking forward to the very gentle sound of cycle wheels traversing those magnificent hills.
I've orders for truffles to take into France Ian, but for home I suspect the jars might be the safest way to go for home transport - should be safe through customs, but I'll bore myself googling it any way
Kudos also for the tip of cheese and grapes back at the hotel - wouldn't be the first time, and generally an enormously enjoyable option. We shall see what we shall see!
Cheers,
Re: One day, a man and a bicycle - Alba and beyond..
In terms of keeping the truffle preserved, I'd say
- Storing in a glass jar is ideal. Cheap to buy at a local market or hardware shop.
- Wrap the truffle in fresh kitchen towel / durable tissue and change this at least EVERY day. A soggy truffle is ruined.
- Keep the glass jar cool. Fridge is good.
- Eat as soon as you can, though they can last maybe a week if you are diligent in changing the paper, though they lose intensity over that period
- Don't ignore the black truffles, as they are durable and work well with hot dishes, especially pasta. White truffles IMO best kept simple by having with eggs, duck eggs if you can get them. Poached, coquette, fried, and I daresay they are brilliant with a soft-boiled egg. It's just one of those great combos.
- Pick up a truffle shaver, the sharp (adjustable) edge key to getting a consistent 'slice'. I tend to chip a little off the nobbly outside of a black truffle to allow it to get going, but no such problems with the white truffle.
- When buying, they'll offer you a smell, and you should tell them the size(s) you seek, either in grams (grammi) or price e.g. circa 30 Euro (churka trenta ay-uro) 40 is quaranta (kwa-ranta 50 is cinquanta (Chin-kwanta), though I suspect many will know English amounts very well by now!
Enjoy them!
p.s. I hadn't seen the 'one day' in the title - definitely recommend Barbaresco area as being very close to Alba, allowing you potentially to see the three key villages (Treiso, Neive and Barbaresco), cycle past a number of well-known vineyards, have a good meal and a couple of winery visits. All potentially under 20km and a really nice way to see the place, and even some light rain / persistent drizzle shouldn't in any way restrict you (though a sunny autumnal day is a wonderful experience in the region).
- Storing in a glass jar is ideal. Cheap to buy at a local market or hardware shop.
- Wrap the truffle in fresh kitchen towel / durable tissue and change this at least EVERY day. A soggy truffle is ruined.
- Keep the glass jar cool. Fridge is good.
- Eat as soon as you can, though they can last maybe a week if you are diligent in changing the paper, though they lose intensity over that period
- Don't ignore the black truffles, as they are durable and work well with hot dishes, especially pasta. White truffles IMO best kept simple by having with eggs, duck eggs if you can get them. Poached, coquette, fried, and I daresay they are brilliant with a soft-boiled egg. It's just one of those great combos.
- Pick up a truffle shaver, the sharp (adjustable) edge key to getting a consistent 'slice'. I tend to chip a little off the nobbly outside of a black truffle to allow it to get going, but no such problems with the white truffle.
- When buying, they'll offer you a smell, and you should tell them the size(s) you seek, either in grams (grammi) or price e.g. circa 30 Euro (churka trenta ay-uro) 40 is quaranta (kwa-ranta 50 is cinquanta (Chin-kwanta), though I suspect many will know English amounts very well by now!
Enjoy them!
p.s. I hadn't seen the 'one day' in the title - definitely recommend Barbaresco area as being very close to Alba, allowing you potentially to see the three key villages (Treiso, Neive and Barbaresco), cycle past a number of well-known vineyards, have a good meal and a couple of winery visits. All potentially under 20km and a really nice way to see the place, and even some light rain / persistent drizzle shouldn't in any way restrict you (though a sunny autumnal day is a wonderful experience in the region).