Capital Tasters February 2011 Wine Dinner - Rubicon
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:54 am
Somewhat hazy memory notes from Wednesday evening. Mostly excellent night except for two very crook Italians.
Krug 1995 - slight bronzey tinge to the colour with an eye-catching swirling stream of the tiniest beading. Beguiling aromatics and a kick-arse palate holding that rare combination of top flight complexity (citrus, pastry shop and fine digestive biscuits) and restrained power followed by a wonderfully long, satisfying finish. Should last for a number of years but is ready for business now. 93 points
Maximin Grunhauser M-S-R Abstberg Auslese Riesling (Fuder 45) 1994 - immensely youthful with little colour development and pristine aromas and flavours of redcurrant, citrus, quince marmalade, minerals and slate. Not heavy or dense, amazingly lithe and with perfect equilibrium. 93 points but perhaps a shade down on the bottle I opened for the group last year.
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendange Tardive 1989 - opened disappointingly (somewhat disjointed aromatically) but the transformation over the course of the evening was just stunning. This is drop-dead gorgeous botrytis affected Alsace Riesling that finishes practically dry with great carry. A legend but I have had better bottles. 93 points
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2000 - not opened
Jean-Jacques Confuron Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts 1996 - another wine that shone brightly on the night. Incredibly good sappy things on the nose at first evolving into something more feminine, floral and plummy by the end of the glass on a very promising, yet to fully resolve, framework. A polished, classy, seductive and thrilling pinot. Long term cellaring vintage. Terrific example this. 94 points
Ch. Leoville-Las-Cases 1985 - perhaps the most youthful bottle I've had the pleasure of opening. Quintessential Bordeaux - earthy, leafy, cedary, tarry over deepset black fruit with a structure and finish to die for. On this bottle's performance, has a long, long way to go. My wine of the night. 95 points.
Pira Barolo 1961 - oxidised
Produtorri del Barbaresco 1979 - corked
Ch. Coutet Cuvee Madame 1986 - not in the same class as the last bottle opened late last year but still a very fine Sauternes on the night. Of the good bottles we opened this was the most disappointing for me. 91 points (compared to the previous bottle - 97 points!). Bottle variation sucks.
Taylors Vintage Port 1970 - this did the trick for me with that uncanny cherry/cranberry liqueur fruit and awesome spirit combo that makes Portuguese VP the great wine it is. Still very youthful with astonishingly good astringency and length with a long drinking window. 93 points
The restaurant excelled with a special degustation menu matched to the wine. Apart from one of the starters (blue-eye cod something-or-other), the parfe' (riesling's), rabbit raviolo (burgundy), slow-roasted lamb shoulder (Bordeaux) and orange/ruby grapefruit dessert (Sauternes) were very good to outstanding. The tenderness and flavour of the lamb being the standout dish for me.
Krug 1995 - slight bronzey tinge to the colour with an eye-catching swirling stream of the tiniest beading. Beguiling aromatics and a kick-arse palate holding that rare combination of top flight complexity (citrus, pastry shop and fine digestive biscuits) and restrained power followed by a wonderfully long, satisfying finish. Should last for a number of years but is ready for business now. 93 points
Maximin Grunhauser M-S-R Abstberg Auslese Riesling (Fuder 45) 1994 - immensely youthful with little colour development and pristine aromas and flavours of redcurrant, citrus, quince marmalade, minerals and slate. Not heavy or dense, amazingly lithe and with perfect equilibrium. 93 points but perhaps a shade down on the bottle I opened for the group last year.
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendange Tardive 1989 - opened disappointingly (somewhat disjointed aromatically) but the transformation over the course of the evening was just stunning. This is drop-dead gorgeous botrytis affected Alsace Riesling that finishes practically dry with great carry. A legend but I have had better bottles. 93 points
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2000 - not opened
Jean-Jacques Confuron Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts 1996 - another wine that shone brightly on the night. Incredibly good sappy things on the nose at first evolving into something more feminine, floral and plummy by the end of the glass on a very promising, yet to fully resolve, framework. A polished, classy, seductive and thrilling pinot. Long term cellaring vintage. Terrific example this. 94 points
Ch. Leoville-Las-Cases 1985 - perhaps the most youthful bottle I've had the pleasure of opening. Quintessential Bordeaux - earthy, leafy, cedary, tarry over deepset black fruit with a structure and finish to die for. On this bottle's performance, has a long, long way to go. My wine of the night. 95 points.
Pira Barolo 1961 - oxidised
Produtorri del Barbaresco 1979 - corked
Ch. Coutet Cuvee Madame 1986 - not in the same class as the last bottle opened late last year but still a very fine Sauternes on the night. Of the good bottles we opened this was the most disappointing for me. 91 points (compared to the previous bottle - 97 points!). Bottle variation sucks.
Taylors Vintage Port 1970 - this did the trick for me with that uncanny cherry/cranberry liqueur fruit and awesome spirit combo that makes Portuguese VP the great wine it is. Still very youthful with astonishingly good astringency and length with a long drinking window. 93 points
The restaurant excelled with a special degustation menu matched to the wine. Apart from one of the starters (blue-eye cod something-or-other), the parfe' (riesling's), rabbit raviolo (burgundy), slow-roasted lamb shoulder (Bordeaux) and orange/ruby grapefruit dessert (Sauternes) were very good to outstanding. The tenderness and flavour of the lamb being the standout dish for me.